Hiking The Lycian Way
19.05.2012 22 °C
It's nice to have things on one's bucket list. Helps to set goals, the anticipation as the opportunity comes up and of course the ultimate act of crossing the item off are all neat aspects of a bucket list. It is important I think, to sit back and savour the moment and to measure the propriety of actually having the item on your list. This is what I have done with hiking the Lycian Way, an activity crossed off our list yesterday.
Did it deserve being on my list? Please read on.
We started off just after breakfast, drove our rented car to a pebble beach near the trail head and found a "free parking" area. No sooner had we parked, then a lovely old Turkish lady came hurrying out of her house and invited us in for tea. We graciously declined but recognized that we would likely have to drop buy for tea after returning from the hike.
We started towards the trail and soon caught up with a group of German hikers who looked to be outfitted for an ascent of Everest. Squall proof umbrellas, GPS, hiking boots that look like they cost as much as a car and hiking poles that resembled a navy seal tool being replete with compasses and flashlights. We smugly strode past them, armed only with our Tilly's and Teva's, promptly took a wrong turn and quickly appreciated the GPS and the deep throated voice directing us dummpkoff's to "go up here yah".
Feeling slightly less smug, we thanked our new trail mates and hurried on. The trail soon narrowed to a single lane for hiking and we slowed to appreciate the significance of being on a trail that dates back to the Lycian period. The idea was to hike along the coast line to a tiny village called Limanagzi, and then to take a water taxi back. We followed the coast line stopping here and there to appreciate tiny houses, amazing sea views and to appreciate the beautiful butterflies, birds and insects that we spotted along the way.
Suddenly Brad spotted a Lycian tomb majestically sitting on some flat rocks just above us. OMG, it was a wonderful sight to see! What a special moment! After taking some pictures, we moved on and soon came to a fork in the trail where we had to decide whether or not to choose the cliff trail or the seemingly safer hill trail. Of course we chose the cliff trail.
Almost immediately, the trail got more difficult. First up then down then up and down all over again as we edged closer and closer to the cliff...the precipice really. Finally we started a steep descent, one that was so close to the cliff edge that we had to use the well tied ropes to lower our selves and to keep us tight to the cliff face. Once again, Brad (who was leading) spotted a tomb right against the cliff face. We were able to step inside this one where Sue offered a short prayer for the person who once occupied the tomb.
We finished traversing the cliff face and worked our way to the tiny village. Of course the Germans were already there and were swimming in the Mediterranean. They were pleased to see us and asked us about the cliff trail and we asked them about the "easier" hill trail. Turns out they enjoyed their hike but did not see any tombs and did not traverse any cliff faces. Of course we felt superior once again. We called it Canada 2 (tombs and cliff face) to Germany one (the GPS correction).
Feeling a bit tired, we worked our way out on the dock and approached what we thought was the water taxi only to find out that the only boats there were private charters and we were going to have to charter our way back. We didn't have a lot of bargaining power as we did not want to hike all the way back to Kas. We grudgingly paid the ransom, jumped on the boat and started back towards Kas when we remembered that we were actually parked at the pebble beach just outside of town. The crew happily agreed to drop us at the beach there...all was good.
As we approached the beach head, we soon noticed that there was no dock there. As the bay leading up to the beach amplified the wave action we were soon in 6 foot swells approaching the beach. The beach also had a big drop off and I soon started feeling like we were approaching the beaches of Normandy. My back pack seemed to get heavier by the minute and the waves seemed to get bigger. After a few moments of tense consideration, the boat crew decided to approach the rocks on one side of the beach and selected a small landing area about two square feet in size. The water was very deep in front of the rock and with the boat bouncing up and down, I knew that if we did not make an accurate jump from the boat to the rock then we wre going to be in 9 or 10 feet of water and in 6 foot swells. Not a thought for the faint of heart. To make matters worse, a large gorgeous dog belonging to the beach house owner, was beside himself with curiosity and chose our tiny jump to rock as his personal watching platform. I went first, lept with full leg power and, using the upswell motion of the waves and landed right beside the curious canine. I grabbed onto him to avoid falling backward into the churning sea. The dog was strong and helped me reagin my balance. I was safely ashore!
Then it was Sue's turn and she nimbly stepped up to the bow and in a graceful jump also landed precariously by Mr Curiosity. Brad and Heather soon followed and with us all safely ashore, the captain quickly backed out of the bay and waved goodbye.
We returned to our car, there was no sign of the sweet old lady so we we drove back to our hotel. Thinking back, we met some nice people, had an amazing hike, saw some very cool Lycian ruins, had a boat ride and had a dramatic landing.
Was it worth it, did it belong on our bucket list....Oh Yeah!!
Another amazing Turkish experience.